adios

Well, apparently my aunt still reads this, so I'll go ahead with one last post:

The research vessel did work out, so on May 2nd, I left San Cristobal to spend a few days on Santa Cruz, and then embark on a 6-day boat trip through Genovesa and Fernandina- two uninhabited remote islands.

The project examined the differences in algal composition with predation, temperature, nutrients, and wave action. We took samples from plates with various conditions. One experiment had plates either totally excluded or completely exposed to predation, excluding the marine iguans, fish, and crabs by putting a cage around the plate. The plates were either white or black, either to emulate differences in temperature. Black plates were compared to algae scraped off of the rocks. Previous experiments had shown that the algae from the plates matched the algae scraped off of the rocks. Another experiment had blocks of rock either partially or totally exluded by cages to allow certain predators. During the trip, we were setting up pellet bags to start another experiment seeing the differnces based on the prescense of nutrients. My work involved a lot of scraping plates, labeling things, cleaning cages of algae, putting up wave action monitors, taking down wave action monitors, and separating invertebrates and rinsing algae later in the lab.

We had three sites- one in Santa Cruz, Genovesa, and Fernandina. The first 4 days we spent at Tortuga Bay- quite a long walk away from the entrance. The place was beautiful though- a long beach with a lot of mangroves. It was difficult there because the tides were early and we had a lot of waves. Then, we set off on the boat to Genovesa. Our site in Genovesa was also the site of frigatebirds nesting, so it was awesome to be so close to the male frigates showing off for the females, as well as red footed boobies, blue footed boobies, and some other birds. The site here was more ideal, and we got the work done pretty quickly. After that we were off to Fernandina, another remote island complete with ginourmous marine iguanas and flightless comorans- the most comical bird you may ever encounter. They have wings, but look a bit ridiciulous and out of place. I did see one in the water while snorkeling, and then can navigate quite well in the water.

Surprisingly, I enjoyed living on the boat a great deal. The crew was awesome, and it was relaxing to hang out on the boat, talking, reading or sleeping. The food was actually pretty good as well. It seemed to me that the boat was an ideal place for some deep conversations with other members of the team. I talked a lot about my aspirations with my "boss" and had an interesting perspective on the US from a Columbian on the boat. He told me that he wants to do graduate work in the US, but is scared to because of all of the government control and people being brainwashed here. He is someone from a violent and politically unstable country, afraid to come to the United States.

We arrived back to Santa Cruz early in the morning. I said goodbye to the team and then took a motorboat back to San Cristobal. Interestingly enough, no one from the crew checked to see if we had enough gas to make it all the way back to the island, so half way through the boat stopped. We had to wait for another boat to bring the gas, and then that wasn't enough, so we once again, had to wait for the hospitality of another boat. I finally got back home an hour and a half late.

I spent the last night with my family and my friend Joelle. Joelle and I made dinner as a final thank you and a mothers' day present, and my host father gave a beautiful toast. He talked about how its been a good time together, and that I always will have a home in San Cristobal. I really am going to miss my family.

The next day consisted of 20 hours of traveling. Looooong day. I finally got back to the US, went out to a diner with my Mom, and slipped into a comatose in my nice, soft bed.

Although the Galapagos was an absolutely amazing experience, and I wouldn't trade it for anything, I am glad to be home now with my family for the next few weeks. I learned a lot about a naturally beautiful, well-preserved place as well as a lot about myself. I will undoubtedly miss the islands, but maybe not the regatone :).

Ciao amigos
Julie

WHOA

Hi probably no-one,

so I haven't updated in a month, which most likely means that at this point, no one is reading the blog. So I may be writing this to no one, but I haven't been keeping up with my journal either so this will be good to have.

A recap of the past month:

Right after my last posts, my parents and sisters finally made it. We had a jam-packed week together, beginning with an avioneta plane ride to Isabela that we were late for. We left around 5 and later that morning, went to the wall of tears. It was sad to hear about all of the relentless, pointless difficult work that some bad guys but some okay guys had to go through- weeks and weeks spending every day in the heat lifting ridiculously heavy objects. Some had committed small crimes, some big, and we even heard about one who was acquitted of his charges later. Following that was a longggg walk back to town, where we were able to see a ton of mangroves and one flamingo. There used to be a lot in the town, but ever since they built the airport, almost all of them have left except for the one with the broken wing all by his lonesome. Que triste.

The rest of the trip was a whirlwind of snorkeling, walking, horesback riding, boating, and giant tortoises. It was fantastic to see the second largest crater in the world, Sierra Negra on Isabela. It was incredibly vast and awe-inspiring. Overall, a great and intense trip. I waved good-bye to them as they got on the plane from where I was out for a run. I'll see them again soon.

you can see pictures of the trip here: http://stutzbach.com/stutzbachs_in_galapagos.htm

Soon after, we spent a week on Santa Cruz for the first part of my Marine Conservation Biology class. The town on Santa Cruz is much larger and busier than Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. It feels more like a city and the life doesn't seem quite as relaxed. I prefer here, but it was great to get another week off of this island.

After another two weeks here, the group set out for our island tour. We began on Isabela doing the same tour that my family did, but the second go-around was still pretty sweet. Then came our 3 nights/4 days aboard La Yolita.

The boat was a bit tumultuous but still amazing since we were able to see so many remote places. I think my favorite was the red beach on Rabido, just because I had never seen that before, although I finally got to see some blue-footed boobies dance on North Seymour. That island was a bird breeding hotspot as I also was able to see a frigatebird trying to attract a female very up close, plus a land iguana. The island was so incredibly Galapagos.

Overall, a good time. Will post some pictures pronto.

Right now, I'm trying to see if I can get on a research vessel with someone from the Charles Darwin Research Station. If that works out, I will be absolutely ecstatic and will be able to see even more remote places and really do research. More on that if I can get all of the permission that I need.

Its hard to believe that I will be home in less than three weeks.

Hasta luego

Frigatebirds, Sharks, and Boobies, oh my!

Last Friday, our class took a trip to other parts of the island. We started out by taking a boat to Frigatebird Hill, where I finally saw a Frigatebird puff out its red neck to impress a female! I actually saw quite a few of them, which made me super-excited. I would like to see one more up close, which we might get to do on our island tour.
Then, we went to Leon Dormido or Kicker Rock to do some snorkeling. The rock itself was interesting to see, but the snorkeling there was amazing. I saw a few hammerheads, some sea turtles, various fish, interesting algae, Galapagos sharks, and a lot of jellyfish. A lot of people got stung pretty badly.
After that we ate lunch on the boat and headed to Puerto Grande, a pretty nice beach. We walked along the shore for a bit, and a few of us swam out to a small island where a bunch of blue-footed boobies were chilling out. We only observed them from the water, which was actually nice since we could see them without disturbing them. I still want to see a red-footed booby, but they're only on the north side of the island where visitors aren't supposed to go. None of them danced though. I am determined to see that dance before I leave.
Hannah and I swam back to the boat, and then we headed off to Isla de Los Lobos to snorkel with the sea lions. On the way, I saw a big manta ray, but the most fun part of the day was playing with the sea lions. The area is ideal for pups because it is secluded and the water is calm, so many younger sea lions were out and playing with sticks. Sometimes they seem so similar to dogs.
I suppose nothing of great interest happened last week. Last night, we all dressed up like pirates and took a short cruise around the island, which was a lot of fun. In the absence of a parrot, I sported a blue-footed booby on my shoulder, my parents were supposed to come today, and I waited a while for them at the airport, but it ends up they missed their layover in Miami so won't be here until tomorrow.

Well, the sun just came out so I may just have to go lay on the beach.

Camping in paradise

Hola!
This week has been great. I started my Evolution class, which I find to be really interesting. I want to delve deeper into this subject since we only have time to skim the surface, but I think that I will be able to do so with further coursework or research.

For a class trip on Friday, we went back to La Galapaguera and to Puerto Chino, a fantastic beach. La Galapaguera was much more fun this time since it wasn't raining and more tortoises were out. We actually received the rated R tour, seeing a tortoise smackdown over some vegetation and a little botched attempt at mating.

Then the pristine beach! That was absolutely fabulous. We went swimming and just laid out on the beach, which was pretty satisfying. The only downside was that I lost my watch in the ocean when we were trying to body surf.

We went out on Friday, and then returned to Puerto Chino on Saturday afternoon after going through a little red tape from the park to camp out there without a guide. We went out pretty far snorkeling, and had to fight quite a few waves, but it was ultimately worth it when I got within 2 feet of a turtle, saw a huge school of big fish, and about 10 Galapagos sharks. They were pretty small, but really interesting to observe.

That night we stayed and camped on the beach. The bugs were out and the tents uncomfortable, but I really liked waking up to the sound of the ocean in such a naturally beautiful place. I'm working on my tan as well, coming slowly but surely.

We took an exam on Monday which I think went pretty well. Now we're talking more about the genetics of evolution. It is a lot to absorb, and we don't go into much depth, but I'm still enjoying the class.

I am so excited about my family coming next week!! They are flying in next Saturday, and afterwards we are going island hopping, which should be a blast. Also, on Friday, we are making it out to Kicker Rock, Punta Pitt, and Isla de los Lobos (Island of the Sea Lions.) That should be a great time, and hopefully i can see some Hammerheads.

Things also seem to be coming into place for the summer, so right now, I'm feeling pretty good

Adios!
Julie

Finally posted some pictures!!!!!!!!!!View from the windmills I wrote about
Puerto Chino
I don't know if the whole thing showed up. Ithink I can hear Marvin Gaye in the background.
All eating... who could have known about the fight to come?
baby tortoise!

I am such a slacker

Hello-

It has been quite some time since I've made a post. Its just sort of difficult to want to sit inside and write about things since I'm doing them all day and then homework (sometimes) at night, but I really wanna keep in touch with things at home plus recount everything that is going on right now so that I can remember.

I'm starting to like it here more and more. I'm finding my footing with my Spanish and cultural differences, and I'm also making more friends outside of the GAIAS American students. I broke down and bought a cell phone. It was just too difficult to make/coordinate plans without one.

Ahh jeez, where to start? I finally got to see the tortoises, although it was rainy and kind of miserable. The coolest part was seeing the babies. They were all clumped together, and at first it looked like they were attacking one, but actually it had turned over on its shell and they were helping it right itself. Awwww.

Disclaimer: Next part is a bit gross

So this was part of a camping trip that our Botany professor took us Monday-Wednesday. Dios mios, this guy is crazy, fun, and really animated. I thoroughly enjoyed his class. I think my favorite part of the day was when we were hiking through the Miconia forest (raining miserably) and he wiped out in a small pond of sorts and emerged covered in mud. He pointed out the mud on his butt, and then proceeded to demonstrate what a dog does after taking a dump and dragged it across the ground. I laughed so hard I almost threw up.

Okay, gross part over.

One disconcerting part of our trip to the highlands was that the invasive species were EVERYWHERE. We semi-enjoyed the presence of mora (blackberry), but it is introduced and has spread to overtake native and endemic plants. Its really sad because there isn't any way (at this point) to get rid of it. People cut it with machetes, but afterwards it just grows back. However, there are a lot of prevention programs going on right now that give a little more hope.

Conservation wise, one really cool part of the trip was when we saw the windmills. San Cristobal gets more than half of its energy through these, and they're beginning to start similar programs on other islands. Sustainability! The recycling here is better than the US with about 97% compliance. All organic waste is composted, and almost everything that can be recycled is recycled.

We got back from the Highlands on Wednesday and my friend Hannah and I finished up our research project on algae. We made a pretty good presentation, but we still need to write a paper. Most likely, I am going to continue this research for the rest of the semester and take the last 3 weeks off to concentrate on it. I'm finally getting into research! I've been wanting to do it for a while, and hopefully I'll get one of these internships this summer.

I was snorkeling with Hannah yesterday and we saw a sea turtle, a couple eels, crazy algae, sea stars plus a lobo (sea lion) wanted to play with us the whole time. When I was little, I was obsessed with turtles, and now I've seen giant tortoises and a sea turtle all in one week. Today I saw a HUGE lobster.

Okay, so i really should write this paper now.

I LOVE IT HERE!

:)

galapagan goodness

Yesterday began Galapagos week with Charles Darwin Day, complete with a beach clean-up and huuge fiesta. Much fun was had by all.

Had my first blue-footed booby sighting, actually right next to a lobo and a marine iguana. Perfect picture if I only had a camera.

I will get better about uploading/taking pictures. Maybe I would be better if I didn't live right next to a beach. Maybe.

I have a mid-term on Friday- libros call.

Julie

pictures

Hanging out in the bathroom
Way to Tiptutini
Humongous fig tree
Top of bird watching station
Indigenous village near Riombamba

More to come!

Vida Tranquila

Greetings from the Galapagos!

So i'm finally here, right now about a few feet from the ocean! I guess I should start with cotopaxi though.
I did actually get cold in Ecuador, believe it or not, in Riobamba and Cotpaxi, which are a crazy high altitudes. I got a chance to practice my spanish with some students in Riobamba, and I presented a project on the problem with invasive goats in the galapagos and the enormous eradication effort. It was great to read about an eradication that worked (in Isabela), since the situation with invasive species sometimes seems impossible to fix. It was frustrating this summer, working all day in the field with a chainsaw, herbicide, sweat, poison ivy, etc etc to drive home for the weekend and see Russian Olive all over the highway on both sides, all of the way across 195.
We stayed for a night in an indigenous community. These women ran a hostal and made us dinner. Apparently the men used to run the hostal, but it didn't work. Generally, women are not as well-respected in Ecuador as in the US, and the indigenous women have it worse. It made me happy to get to talk with them and support them.
The next day was hiking rock climbing- a lot harder than it looks! I didn't get very far, but i felt pretty accomplished afterwards.
Saturday we went horseback riding and some hiking. We got to an altitude of 4,800 meters! That's like 3 miles! Boy, was it cold.
Sunday was the polar opposite- the trip to the islands. We took a plane, stopped in Guayaquil, and flew into Baltra, where we saw a lot of iguanas just hanging out. It really seemed like a desert. Then we took a 2.5 hour boat ride to San Cristobal, where I met my host family. They seem great and very accommodating of my limited Spanish.
The way of life is so different here. People walk slowly, and everyone knows each other. Everything is so much more calm and tranquil. It is quite a change for me, and I love it. There is wildlife everywhere- interesting birds, SO MANY SEA LIONS, plus crabs, lizzards... I went for a run this morning and got to explore some of the town/island, which was fantastic. Running should be a great way to explore. This is going to be a great 3 months!
Ciao!

The Amazon rainforest!

Hello!

So yesterday we got back from our exciting trip to the Tiputini Biodiversity Station in the Amazon rainforest. It really felt like an adventure, and I had an astounding time.

The way there was quite a journey. We started out our day at 6:45, taking a bus to the airport. We had a short planeride after a delay. Then, we took a pretty long boatride, then a "ranchara," a bus of sorts with open sides. After that it was another boat, until finally, we arrived.

We got there around dinner, but had time for a swim in the river before. I still can't get over that I went swimming on January 5th. We spent the two days hiking, canopy walking, and eating really good food. My friends and I would get up early, 5;30, to go down to the river, listen, and watch the sky. I know this sounds sort of cheesy, but I really felt at peace. We experienced the rainforest through all of our senses- hearing the howler monkeys, seeing the crazy wildlife, feeling the heat/humidity, tasting ants that taste like lemon because of the symbiotic relationship they have with this acidic tree, and smelling the plants/animals.

Highlights from our hikes:
The view from the bird watch tower, the view from the canopy top, chasing monkeys with our insaney amazing guide seeing spider and woolly monkeys playing, various birds, huge ants, poisoness trees, frogs, turtles, a strangling vine that grows from the top down, flowers, mud, humongous fig trees, huge roots that stick out of the ground, army ants, medicinal plants, crazy fungi

Also, it was great to hang out at night under the stars. We had some great talks.

I was sad to leave and make the long journey back. Our flight back was super-delayed, so we hung out in this pool where I lost my nosering, yet again. Overall, it was an astounding experience and I am so glad I went. I hope that someday I can go back.

I have pictures but can't post them now. Thursday I go to Riobamaba, Saturday to Cotopaxi, and Sunday to the Galapagos Islands!

pictures

Some pictures of Otovalo: Okay, my uploading got messed up. The lagoon is an active caldera. The market is crazy.

Another weekend adventure

Some pictures from Quito,
It was sort of a foggy day...
Awesome tour guide: "do you want a picture of this?" yes, I do.

This is the equator, I am on both sides
That was as many pictures as blogger would let me post.


So Friday was my midterm (bleh,) but Saturday we all got up early and took a bus to Otovalo. First we hit up this sweet volcanoe. It was cool to see it from far away. I took a few pictures, and will post them soon (I haven't uploaded them yet/don't have room.) Then, we went to the market, where I bartered like crazy. It is fun to do, they tell you a price, then you look wary, and tell them half of that price. Usually, they won't give it to you. You have to be adament, maybe move up a little, and then walk away. Usually they call you back. I had so much fun and probably spent waaay too much money. Afterwards we took a boat tour of this lagoon in a caldera. You could see the bubbles come up since the volcano is still active.

I am having a good time, but I have to go write a paper now.

Ciao!

New Dog and Stubborn Horse

So this weekend was pretty exciting. A group of 7 started out on Saturday morning finding a bus to Mindo in the Cloud Forest. After one fruitless bus station, we found a $2.50 bus to our destination. We had split up to take separate taxis, and after a while, my taxi group feared that the other group had given up on the journey. Fortunately, they entered our bus PLUS PUPPY. Yes, the cutest cocker spaniel with fleas that you have seen, a gift for Julie H’s friend in Ecuador. It seemed a bit in sorry shape, but after some food and rest it was lively, raring to go, and peeing all over the place.

After arrival in Mindo, we found a nice hotel for a spectacular 5$/night/person. There were stray dogs everywhere, and about half of them were pregnant. One followed us to the hotel, so the owner brought him in and asked if he was ours too. We thought about it.

We ate a linner at a small Mexican restaurant. After this, we went to this interesting “frog concert,” (me sporting the grigaesque huge raincoat) where we saw a multitude of hummingbirds (167 species in Ecuador compared to 5 in the US or something like that) various noisy frogs, glow in the dark microbacteria, a huge cucaracha, and various crazy plants. Exhausted, we turned in early after spending some time hanging out in the hammocks in the backyard of our hotel and eating Ecuadorian ice cream.

We woke up early the next morning, got our return bus tickets, ate breakfast, and arranged a horseback riding tour. Somehow I ended up the huge horse which I don’t think likes humans too much. He was feeling pretty slow and lagging behind. I finally got him to catch up to the others, but the tour guide immediately got the boy walking behind us to turn him around so he is in the back, because apparently that’s what he’s used to. After a while I was about a mile behind, but I enjoyed the view.

The bus ride home was a little crowded, but made it back to Hotel Walther, safe and sound. I should go beings as I have a mid-term coming up on Friday, but Saturday is a trip to Otovalo, which should be fantastic. Unfortunately, I don't think I brought my camera connector chord so I can't post pictures until i find another one or someone with a similar camera. I will post as soon as I do!

Buenos Noches

Well, I'm here

hello,

So I wrote a pretty sizable entry the other day, but unfortunately it got deleted. I arrived pretty late on Saturday, and checked into the Hotel Walther, which is pretty nice minus the lack of hot water most times.

Quito is astounding. Being on a mountain is so different then flat Jersey or southern WI. I think I'm finally used to the altitude. I have been running pretty steadily, which I might do in a few. We took a tour of the city of Quito on Sunday. There was a pretty sweet statue of the Virgin of Quito. We saw a caldera, as well as the center of the world, plus a sweet goat.

Quito is pretty great at night. Everything is super-cheap.

Well, I'm going to go for that run now, and probably play some soccer.

Buenos tardes,
Julie

Thanks Mom

Ahh! I leave tomorrow.

I made this post mainly to quote my mother.

"I know you'll be fine. You're so brave. That, or dumb, or naive or something."

Great.